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Sewing fail: Flatlock and Double Needle Hem

7/9/2014

1 Comment

 
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Ever since I started working out and gaining arm muscle, my store bought t-shirts have become too small in the sleeves and armhole.  Nothing drives me more crazy than a too-tight armhole digging into my armpit.  The next time I bought shirts I went for a medium, and still the armholes were too tight-- I guess the fit models used by Target have no biceps at all.  I'm not even close to looking like a body builder, and I thought it would be ridiculous to buy a size large and be swimming in fabric just to get the right fit in the arm.  So, as usual, time to make my own.  A t-shirt should be easy enough, right?  Finding a simple t-shirt pattern though proved to be a challenge.  I ended up with a Kwik Sew pattern and was quite pleased with it.  

{As a side note, I also bought a Kwik Sew men's button-up shirt pattern, and there was none of that silly handsewing and endless staystitching that also drives me crazy.  I might be a convert to Kwik Sew patterns--they cost more, but they are geared more towards professional finishing.}  

So sewing my t-shirt went quite well until I got to the hems.  I really wanted to flatlock them.  Now... my serger and I have never gotten along well during the 11 years of our relationship.  It takes me hours of swatching to get a balanced tension, and it involves much shouting and flinging of fabric across the room.  After about three hours, I thought I finally had a nice looking flatlock.  I hemmed the whole t-shirt, only to find that something went wrong with the lower looper thread and the whole thing fell out.  More adjusting, and tried to hem it two more times only to have the same result.  Lots of wasted thread and with high blood pressure I finally threw in the towel for the day.

The next day, with a much more calm demeanor, I dragged out my old beat-up Brother sewing machine since my cheapie Singer doesn't have the option for double needle stitching.  I fiddled with the tension and got it to work somewhat.  I thought it would be ok, so I stitched the hem for the fourth time.  It turned out decent, but one of the threads kept skipping stitches.  Yikes.  But by this time I was tired of the whole thing and just went with it.  It isn't too noticeable, but the hems aren't as stretchy as I would like.   
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After some contemplating and bouncing ideas off my husband (who does know how to sew, strange enough), I decided to invest in a cover stitch machine.  I like sewing with knits (so far), and knits seem to be what I wear the most of anyway, so it makes sense for me to sew them.  I've made the lofty goal for myself to try to make all of my own clothes.  I know I will still have to purchase some complicated items like jeans, structured bras and probably jackets, but now with a coverstitch machine I can make durable and professional looking clothes.  

I ended up ordering a Brother 2340CV from Allbrands.  I've ordered from them in the past and was pleased with the service, and I took advantage of their package deal to get all the attachments, plus thread, 100 needles, and a carrying case.
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So I plopped myself down and read the manual, then bravely attempted to sew some coverstitch.  I know I should have just threaded the machine from scratch, but I attempted to tie on new threads like I do with my serger, and it ended up being a disaster.  My first attempt at sewing ended up sucking the fabric down into the feed dogs and got stuck.  Before I even made a proper stitch, I learned how to take the machine apart using three different screw drivers--yeah, thanks Brother, my husband thought I was nuts when I came back twice asking for various tools.  Finally he just handed me the whole tool box.

The problem ended up being a misthread for the looper, so it was easily fixed once I was able to get the fabric unstuck.  Then moments later.... TA DA.
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Lovely 4 thread 3 needle coverstitch.  I think I will generally use 3 thread 2 needle in the widest width, but figured out I try it out this way first.  LOVE IT.

Tomorrow will be time to cut out another t-shirt!!
1 Comment
Santosh Kumar link
10/24/2020 05:48:57 am

This is so informative.

Reply



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    Azalea & Rosebud Knits
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    Cassie loves to knit, read and cook.  She sometimes does all three at the same time.

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