I find myself in need of nice long-sleeved blouses, and I just fell in love with the Oakridge Blouse pattern when it was first published by Sewaholic. I'll begin by saying that I found the instructions of this pattern very clear, and the illustrations helpful. My problems are all due to fit.
I was very confused when I tried to determine which size I should cut. Through a bit of research, I found that Sewaholic patterns are designed for a pear-shaped figure. I'm definitely the opposite (broad shoulders and muscle due to weight lifting), so I had to alter the pattern a bit to incorporate a couple sizes. I looked more to the finished measurements than the body measurements for choosing the size, and decided on a size 6 through the shoulders and armhole and a size 4 for the body.
My 'muslin' was made from blue chambray I've had in my stash for years, and I was hoping that my pattern alterations would be good enough to make a wearable garment. I was wrong, oh so very wrong.
I was very confused when I tried to determine which size I should cut. Through a bit of research, I found that Sewaholic patterns are designed for a pear-shaped figure. I'm definitely the opposite (broad shoulders and muscle due to weight lifting), so I had to alter the pattern a bit to incorporate a couple sizes. I looked more to the finished measurements than the body measurements for choosing the size, and decided on a size 6 through the shoulders and armhole and a size 4 for the body.
My 'muslin' was made from blue chambray I've had in my stash for years, and I was hoping that my pattern alterations would be good enough to make a wearable garment. I was wrong, oh so very wrong.
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My dress form isn't exactly my size, but close enough to demonstrate the fit issues. I had some major armhole gaping and the sharp curves of the side seams made big wings over my hips. I even took in 1/2" over the hips after sewing the first time, and still they were winging out badly. Looking at other people's projects, I found that many people found the sleeves extremely long. I pinned in the sleeve, without the cuff, and realized that it would have been the correct length if I didn't attach the cuff.
So I continued on, making major alterations to the pattern pieces. To fix the armhole gaping, I followed the advice from this blog post by Sew Country Chick, and added to the existing bust dart.
I also smoothed out the curve in the waistline and hips by filling in 1/4" at the waist, beginning below the bust dart, I removed 1/2" from the hip at the hemline and made sure it was straight for about an 1" above the hem and blended up to the waist.
I didn't like all the fabric bunching up on the back, due to my having a rather round posterior, so I added in some back darts for a bit of shaping.
I decided to give myself an option of a sleeve with no cuff, so I just added 1" to the sleeve piece to make a hem.
So I continued on, making major alterations to the pattern pieces. To fix the armhole gaping, I followed the advice from this blog post by Sew Country Chick, and added to the existing bust dart.
I also smoothed out the curve in the waistline and hips by filling in 1/4" at the waist, beginning below the bust dart, I removed 1/2" from the hip at the hemline and made sure it was straight for about an 1" above the hem and blended up to the waist.
I didn't like all the fabric bunching up on the back, due to my having a rather round posterior, so I added in some back darts for a bit of shaping.
I decided to give myself an option of a sleeve with no cuff, so I just added 1" to the sleeve piece to make a hem.
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The fit on the second muslin is much better. The armhole gaping is gone and the side seams fit more smoothly on my body. The back darts were a good idea, but I made them far to close to the side seams. I removed the shirttail, thinking a plain hem would be easier to sew, but I think it removes some of the beauty of this design.
I'm really terrible at setting in sleeves. I tried crimping them, which I know should technically work, but for some reason my sewing machine just doesn't crimp the fabric well. I was pressing hard with my finger, and it just didn't work. Not sure what I was doing wrong, any suggestions are welcome.
I used quilting fabric for the second muslin, which I know it a hotly debated topic. While this blouse fits, it doesn't hang very well and it seems to just scream homemade. I think the next one will be the winner, and I'll be sure to use some sort of soft and drapey fabric.
I'm really terrible at setting in sleeves. I tried crimping them, which I know should technically work, but for some reason my sewing machine just doesn't crimp the fabric well. I was pressing hard with my finger, and it just didn't work. Not sure what I was doing wrong, any suggestions are welcome.
I used quilting fabric for the second muslin, which I know it a hotly debated topic. While this blouse fits, it doesn't hang very well and it seems to just scream homemade. I think the next one will be the winner, and I'll be sure to use some sort of soft and drapey fabric.
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