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Laurels and Iris

5/12/2014

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My sewing machine has been abuzz lately with lots of projects.  Now that it is darn hot, I'm really wanting to make myself summery clothes.  I have a bad habit of buying big-box sewing patterns whenever they are on sale at Joann and then never making anything from them.  The last time I went pattern shopping I realized with some exasperation that all I want are simple designs that fit well.  Apparently that is too much to ask!  At the time, I was looking for plain pants with an elastic waistband (which I will attempt to make in a non-old-lady look), a plain knit tee, and a plain woven pullover top with no buttons or zippers.  Eventually I found patterns that would work, but I realized that I really needed to look beyond Simplicity, Butterick and McCall.  

I am an independent designer, so why not support another independent designer?  I already knew that I loved the Iris pattern by Colette, so I bought a few more Colette patterns. More expensive than the big-box designs, but I knew in the end I would be much happier with a well fitted and well designed garment.  Coincidentally, Colette just published a book on sewing with knits and two knit patterns.  I took advantage of a deal and bought all three, without even knowing what the two knit patterns were.  Luckily I was not disappointed!  Along with the knit patterns I purchased Laurel, a simple shift dress.  During the hottest part of summer I live in dresses, and this looked so comfortable and cute, I knew I had to make myself at least half a dozen!

I mentioned previously that I wanted to make myself another pair of Iris shorts.  So while I was waiting for my new patterns to arrive in the mail, I dove in.  I still had my notes from my previous pair of Iris shorts.  I added a bit more curve to the center front seam, added 1/4" at the waist and hips, and added 2" in length.  Thanks to my degree in fashion design, altering the pattern just brought back (somewhat) fond memories of drafting patterns in school.  

The fabric is a red stretch sateen.  This time I watched a couple videos on sewing an invisible zipper, and even though I had to rip out my first try, the second attempt turned out swell.  I might have lost my fear of sewing zippers!  The fit turned out much better this time as well, and I did end up keeping the pockets.  They have hardly left my body since I finished them, so please excuse all the wrinkles in the picture.
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After the shorts I tackled the Laurel dress.  I know that serious sewists would probably call me a blasphemer for even thinking of making clothes out of quilting cottons, but the prints are so perfect I couldn't help myself.  I at least used two *nice* quilting cottons.  The first one I shortened the sleeves a bit and did a slightly narrower hem at the bottom.  This is about as short as I like to get on a dress, so I think for my third Laurel I might add an inch or so in length.  I made my own seam binding out of a solid blue quilting cotton.  I made the ultimate serger mistake and accidentally cut a hole in my dress.  Luckily it was on the back near the bottom, and the print is so crazy that my patch job isn't noticeable.
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I considered this dress my 'muslin' and realized that the only problem was that it was too tight across the shoulders.  Ever since I started working out and building up arm and chest muscle, all my tops have been too tight in the shoulders.  So again I adjusted the pattern.  I also made an alternate version of Laurel to be sleeveless and have a slightly lower neckline.  I used another quilting cotton in a really graphic yellow and grey print.  I think I look like some sort of vision test, but bold prints are the norm for me. This one doesn't hang as well as the paisley dress, so I will have to blame it on my choice to use quilting fabric.  I used single fold bias tape to finish the neck and armholes, and I think that was the best choice since this print is so busy.
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I have some nice rayon challis prints and a red solid in my fabric stash, so I think I will make a third Laurel with another neckline and sleeve variation. 

But before I do that, I am determined to tackle a knit.  I'll admit that I haven't sewn with knits before, and I'm a bit intimidated.  I have the Moneta pattern and some heather grey jersey sitting on my desk waiting for me.  Sometime this week I'll re-read my sewing with knits book and gather up my courage.
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    Azalea & Rosebud Knits
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    Cassie loves to knit, read and cook.  She sometimes does all three at the same time.

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